Extract from Julian’s Journeys

Having arrived at Boat Landing 2, we caught the boat across Lake Kozjak. It was lunchtime so we investigated some stalls that were set out around Boat Landing 3, where local women sell a mild yellow home-made cheese called “Skripavac”, in kilogram chunks, though you can have a quarter or half kilogram piece.

They also sell a delicious variety of sandwiches, containing fillings ranging from red plums, to crushed walnuts, poppy seeds, apples and cheese and onions. These fillings are baked directly into the bread in a similar way to the potica that is found in neighbouring Slovenia.

Having eaten, we started on the circuit of the Lower Lakes by walking past the Milovac Falls. We were now walking through a different type of countryside; the lakes were squeezed between limestone hills and the path was the only thing between the lake and the sheer side of the canyon. This meant that you were right by the water’s edge and the number of small fish in Lake Gavanovac couldn’t be counted accurately as there were so many of them.

Round the next corner, the view from the top of the small cataract that flows out of Gavanovac showed the remaining lakes spread out in front of us with the network of paths between them, looking like a pattern of rice-paddies that had been planted in indoor swimming pools, except this blue is totally natural. We also heard the highest waterfall in the park, the Veliki Slap (the big waterfall), Plitvice’s largest natural feature.